Idea Show


A Dress For Every Figure Fall/Winter 2008

The hourglass figure may be the American ideal. But a bride doesn't have to hide if she's not a perfect 10.

The bridal industry has a dress design to complement every figure and several trade secrets to minimize flaws.

Linda Shaps-Shanin, a spokeswoman for David's Bridal in Philadelphia, said the company recently completed a bodyshape study to understand the various body shapes of American women.

The company wanted to make sure when it designs dresses, that they not only fit but make the bride look her best. The study had another benefit as well. When a customer comes in without a clue about the style and
shape of dress she wants, the staff can suggest a flattering silhouette.

Next in importance when choosing the dress is wearing the proper undergarments — bra and slip. Bridal shops can fit a bride for a bra and provide foundations for various dress styles.

Other considerations are the arms. About 65 percent of all wedding dresses are strapless, a declining trend, down from 80 percent. For religious reasons or to hide heavy upper arms, brides may want sleeves.

Shaps-Shanin said strapless gowns can be fitted with cap, short, three-quarter and long sleeves. Or the bride may wear a jacket, such as the bolero style, or a wrap or shawl.

Choosing the right neckline, depending on the size of the bust, can create an illusion of slim or full proportions.

The same goes for ruching, where fabric gathered in a certain way creates tight, uneven pleats. The technique has become an important trend in styling, Shaps-Shanin said.

“For a heavy person, you don't want fabrics that are clingy. But it's more the design of the dress than the fabric itself. It's draped and ruched a certain way.”

Emerging silhouettes



Emerging Silhouettes

HOURGLASS
This is the American ideal: a slender waist and rounded bosom and hips. The bride with the hourglass figure can wear pretty much whatever she wants, including the mermaid style, a variety of necklines, asymmetrical and draped styles and A-lines.

SPOON
This bride is very small on top and heavier in the hips and rear. The ideal dress can have an Empire waist, an A-line shape or a draped, Grecian-style flowing skirt. Ball gowns work for the spoon shape as well as the Basque waist, a dropped-style with an undefined waistband.

INVERTED TRIANGLE
The style minimizes the small bust area. This shape is larger through the hips. The right dress style is one with a dropped waist, an A-line and a ball gown. The upper torso can be a V-neck, halter or tank style, not strapless.

RECTANGLE
This figure is straight up and down and calls for the Empire style with a dropped waist and princess seams. These seams run from bustline to waist, giving the illusion of curves. The sheath style and strapless gowns also work for this profile.

ROUND
The rounded figure, from top to waist to rear, is the plus-sized woman. Flattering styles are the Aline, dropped waist and draped styles. A variety of necklines are appropriate, including sweetheart and halter styles.


Source: David's Bridal


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